Far from the bustle and the hustle of Bangkok, the old city of Chanthaburi has been able to preserve a traditional way of life. Thanks exclusively to the strong willingness of its local community.
CHANTHABURI- A little bit more than three hours away from Bangkok, there is a small city nestled along its river, a true urban idyll far away from the permanent noise and agitation of the capital. Chanthaburi had in the past a very turmoil-rich history which makes it today one of the most interesting destinations to discover in this part of Thailand along the Gulf of Siam. According to the local community, life along the Chanthaburi River started over 300 years ago during King Narai (1656-1688). The city could have remained totally unknown if it did not turn into a bustling trade centre, especially for gems. Immigrants settled along the river from China and also Vietnam. Chanthaburi in the early 20th century became a rather cosmopolitan and thriving community composed of Thais, Chinese and Vietnamese.
Chantabury became even more famous as it became involved into a war between Siam and France in the late ninety century. As French wanted to secure the access to the Mekong River in Laos up to the border to China, Siam refused the access and went into war. French send war ships up to Bangkok. Finally, Siam agreed to French conditions, finding no support from the British. In the Franco-Siamese treaty of 1893, France obtained the temporary occupation of Chantaburi and the demilitarisation of Battambang, Siem Reap in Cambodia as a 25 kilometre-wide buffer zone on the western bank of the Mekong. French then annexed Chanthaburi, staying there for 12 years until 1905. During that time, the city took the name of ‘Chantaboun’, which explains why the ancient district along the river still carries that name on community project.
The presence of Vietnamese fostered the development of Catholicism in the area, naturally supported by the French. Built during the French time, the Immaculate Conception Cathedral is today the most impressive architectural testimony of this French-Vietnamese presence. Achieved in 1909 in an exuberant neo-gothic style with stained glass windows even manufactured in France, the Immaculate Conception cathedral is considered today as the most beautiful one within Thailand.
But this is not the only point of attraction of Chanthabury. Its riverside city offers probably one of Thailand’s most charming and laid back atmosphere. Strolling around the couple of streets grouped along the river is like going back in time, probably in the kingdom’s early seventies. Old wooden Chinese-Thai houses are still there in high numbers with their original inhabitants occupied to cook biscuits or repairing motorcycles. Other houses of mortar and bricks have a distinctive French flavor with ornate balconies and arches over doors and windows. A strong reminiscence of this 12-year hiatus when the city turned French.
The preservation of the old town with its dilapidated facades –one of its most enduring charm- is due to the strong will of the local community. Local inhabitants have been active creating maps, a website –currently not in use- painting houses or asking young artists to install frescoes and installing the Chanthaboon Learning Centre in an 100-year old house. This is the place where locals are in fact enjoying sharing information with visitors about the history of the neighbourhood. The preservation of the old community started back to 2009. There is now a soft gentrification of the area, which has been portraited in many local media. Trendier coffee shops and the first souvenir shops start to replace more traditional shops. And a festival is now organized every year around October, helping to raise further awareness in the control of tourism.
It would however take a while until Chanthaburi turns into a new Hua Hin. A rather sight of relief for romantic escapes’ amateurs…
Luc Citrinot a French national is a freelance journalist and consultant in tourism and air transport with over 20 years experience. Based in Paris and Bangkok, he works for various travel and air transport trade publications in Europe and Asia.
